Found at the U-shaped diner: The Apple Pan still serves up simple burger perfection
Produced by Finn Martin and Gavin Meichelbock
Plucked out of time and still standing on the corner of West Pico Boulevard and Glendon Avenue sits a nearly 80-year-old landmark in the California food scene – The Apple Pan. This restaurant is not only beloved by the blue-collar Angeleno but has received massive financial support from the likes of Hollywood director Todd Field and music industry moguls Shelli and Irving Azoff. Even well after its founding in 1947 by Ellen and Alan Baker, hungry customers still fight for the limited spots at the establishment’s iconic U-shaped bar seating – the food really is that good.
Patrons pack the tiny dining room. Customers lucky enough to beat the rush relax on the red upholstered stools while those next in line stalk the lunch hall like sharks while they hunt for an open seat. If inside seating proves unavailable, diners can always order at the walk-up window located on the right side of the building and enjoy their meal on the patio. While the menu has a surprising selection that includes southern baked ham and egg salad, The Apple Pan is known for its pie and burgers.
While the Steakburger technically originates from Alan Baker’s previous venture, King’s Kitchen, it is The Apple Pan’s claim to fame for a reason. Of course, from the first bite, customers will take note of that crisp, cold and crunchy iceberg lettuce – a true staple of the California-style hamburger. Two kinds of pickles, dill pickle relish and pickle slices, brighten the juicy, beefy burger with sweet acidity. The Tillamook cheddar, for a dollar extra, gives a velvety creaminess that envelops a near-perfect sandwich.
As a second burger alternative, The Apple Pan presents the Hickoryburger. A staple nearly identical to the Steakburger with its crisp lettuce and delectable pickle slices, the Hickoryburger also exudes a strong, smoky flavor. Slightly sweet with a kick of tang to keep you wanting more, the Hickoryburger upholds the promise of a delicious Apple Pan burger while providing an incredible alternative with a punch of flavor.
Since no burger is complete without fries, it would have been a crime not to order them. While more artisanal cuts of potato such as the steak, curly or waffle fry are enjoyed in smaller portions, the ones at The Apple Pan are the kind people dunk in ketchup and mustard and eat by the handful without an ounce of regret. Uniformly chopped, they all share a crispy exterior with pillowy potato innards. These fries are surprisingly good even when they are cold but could benefit from more seasoning, a slight nitpick for an overall quality piece of potatoey goodness.
This all-American affair has to be rounded off by a slice of one of The Apple Pan’s delectable pies – two slices to be exact. To complement the regional burger, the boysenberry pie hailing from Anaheim was the perfect match. This seasonal item is a must-try. The filling is a delicious balance of sweet and tart that is mellowed out by the smooth and creamy whipped topping. Next on the plate is the pecan pie, and a great one at that. Syrupy sweetness meets oaky nuttiness in a delicately gooey filling broken up by the sandy texture of whole and chopped nuts. Even though the crusts are no better than a store-bought pie tin, these desserts got it where it counts.
The Apple Pan is not only a historic Los Angeles institution, but is genuinely serving up some of the best burgers in the city.